I made the mast by laminating two pieces of 1/4"x3/4" wood (for the 48"version). Before laminating them, I cut a 1/8"x3/32"deep groove 1/16" in from the rear edge of each to make a track to hold the sail. I glued the two pieces with waterproof glue (keeping the groove clean). Then I cut a thin slot to access the track along the back of the mast. I used a block plane to taper the mast so that the top would be thinner and lighter.

I made the booms for the main and jib sails from the same wood. The wood I used was Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Spruce or fir should work well too. Pine may not be strong enough and hardwood such as oak may be too heavy. Ash may be too flexible.

I used brass strips and wire to make the fittings and brass nails to hold things in place.

I made sails from an old Spinnaker. Any lightweight Dacron or nylon cloth should work too. I laid out the shape of the sail on a piece of plywood in dark pencil and pinned the cloth over the top. I used a large wooden straightedge as a guide to cut the material. I have a soldering iron with a tip I modified by hammering it into a knife shape which I use to cut the cloth and seal the edge at the same time.

I also cut strips of cloth the make hems to reinforce the edges of the cloth. I sewed a piece of nylon string into the luff (mast edge) of the sail to hold it into the track. I also sewed a piece of nylon string into the forward edge of the jib to support it between the mast and the jib-boom. The string in the jib is allowed to extend to tie the sail to the bast and boom.

I sew a hook into the clew (rear corner) of each sail to hook it to the boom. The hook should face sideways.

You will have to make some hardware to attach the sails to the booms and the booms to the boat. If you are sailing in salt water the fittings should be made from brass, copper, monel or stainless steel.

First, the "goose neck" is the fitting which holds the boom to the mast. It must allow the boom to swing from side to side and move up and down. The simplest way to accomplish that is with two inter locked eyes, one fastened to the end of the boom, the other to the mast. I make mine from brass strips 1/32"x1/4" I bend the brass and drill holes for brass pins which fasten the parts together.

A boom vang is a line tied 1/3 of the way out the boom to the base of the mast. It holds the boom down and improves the sail's efficiency of the wind.

I make a plate at the rear ends of the booms (both for the main sail and the jib) with a series of holes into which you hook the clew (corner) of the sail. This makes the tension on the sail adjustable, Tight for strong breezes, loose for light breezes. I fasten it to the boom by sawing a vertical slot into the end, insert the plate, drill some holes through and bolt firmly using a small bolt.

The jib-boom is connected to the deck a few inches aft of the front end of the boom and tip of the bow. With the jib attached to the mast and boom, and the boom attached to the deck, the sail stays tight because the tension on the front edge of the sail, working with the lever of the boom keeps the rear edge tight.

The sheets should lead from the sails to the sail control. Locate the sheet the same distance from the mast on the mainsail as from the attachment of the sheet to the jib-boom to the jib-boom to the deck. This is so that as the sail control adjusts the sails they move together. You can use a simple eye to attach the sheets to the booms or just securely tie them.

The top or head of the mast has to hold the mainsail up the mast with the main-halyard and hold the back stay or string from the tip of the stern of the boat. The back stay must be held clear of the main sail, I made the mast head fitting have a crane reaching back and up to hold the backstay.

Also, make a fitting to hold the top of the jib to the mast, again it can be just an eye that you tie the string in the jib to.