You are planning to build your self a boat. How should you make it meet your needs. There are lots of options described in these instructions. The following are some pointers that will help choose among them.

Type:

Shearwater Boats has several designs to choose from. Choose among them based on looks, performance and size.

Click here for an over view of the types of Stitch and glue kayaks by Shearwater Boats. Or here to see pictures

Size:

Cheap:

Big feet:

Light weight:

Rugged:

As easy as possible:

I started on Wednesday, May 27^th at 10:45am by scarfing the plywood to make pieces long enough for the boat. The plan was to scarf two full sheets and a short piece together. I actually cut the two full sheets and the partial sheet in half lengthwise so that I scarfed twice making two sheets 24-5/8" by 17' - 3 1/2". I planned to cut opposite sides of the boat together by laying these two sheets on top of each other as I sawed the panels out.

I did all that in one day

The next day I removed the clamps, plastic and staples to show two long, limber sheets of plywood. I cleaned up the joints a little with the belt sander. Then I transferred the pattern to the plywood and cut the panels out. Photos of cutting out panels

Tape together the templates ( 5 large sheets of paper) and check that they were straight. I then laid the template onto the plywood so that all the panels were on the plywood and thumb-tacked it down. Next use a center punch to punch through the paper to mark the plywood every 2-3" along the edges of the panels and 3/8"-1/2" from the edge on each 1 foot station line.

After marking all the panels, (5 on the pattern) remove the pattern and used a long straightedge and a pencil to mark the edges of the panels.

Then securely clamp together the two sheets of plywood with the show sides facing each other. Use some scrap to protect the plywood from the clamps. Then saw out the all the panels with your saber saw while keeping the two (port and starboard side) panels clamped together. Dress the edges with the block plane so that they were smooth and accurate to the pattern lines.

While still clamped, I drilled holes for the wire "stitches". I Drilled a 5/64" hole at each punch mark made 1/2" from the edge on the 1' station lines plus one half way between, 1/2" from the edge. This gave me holes 1/2" from the edge of all the panels every 6" (of boat length not necessarily 6" apart.) I also drilled holes 1/2" from the end of the two hull panels (#1&2) 2"- 3" apart. I drilled an extra hole at station 6 and 10.5 where the bulkheads attach.

Next, trace and cut out the bulkhead panels from the remaining sheet of plywood. I drilled holes near all the corners of the bulkheads for wire.

After unclamping the panels, bevel the edges so they would make a neat joint with their mates. Panel #1 should be beveled a lot where the keel is deeply "V"ed near the end and less toward the middle. The outer edge should be beveled more near the middle where the bottom and sides meet at an angle less at the ends. I found that a bit too much bevel was OK and allowed the panels to join tightly. Bevel all the panels with thought to the angles they met their neighbors.

In preparation for the next step take 4 packages of copper wire and cut the rolls in half with a pair of tin-snips to get hundreds of 2"- 3" arcs of wire.

First loosely wire together the two bottom panels (#1) along the keel line and up the ends (bow and stern).

Next, wire in the bulkheads to spread the bottom panels. Then, wire on the sides. All the wires were still only moderately tight, so, twist them tight while checking that every thing is aligned properly (make sure the bow and stern lines are vertical, not twisted).

Continue by adding the first panels of the deck with only as many wires as needed to give the kayak its shape.

Wire together the two forward deck panels before installing them and hook wires through all the holes along the edges. Next, starting at the front hook these wires into their corresponding holes loosely. This way you can get all the wires through the holes without really getting your hand into the boat (which you cannot do because of the bulkheads.) When all the wires are in place, start tightening them up.

Check that all the joints are tight and that the panels meet cleanly. Make sure that the lines of the boat are fair look for humps and valleys in along the joints. You may need to un-wire a section and take a stroke or two with your block plane for humps. Or you can loosen the wires and insert a toothpick or similar bit of wood for valleys.

When you are happy with the shape brush epoxy into the joints (except the deck to hull joint) to hold the shape while taping the seams. Avoid getting epoxy and drips onto the surface of the plywood as much as possible.

Cut or untwist the wires holding the deck onto the hull.

Cut a scrap piece of plywood into a spreading tool 1-1/2" wide, 8" long with a rounded end. Sand the edges smooth.

Carefully, remove the deck and set it where you can work on it (if your space is limited just set it aside, carefully, until you have finished taping the hull).

Press the wires into the inside of the joint with a screwdriver. This is so the wires can be hidden under the epoxy fillet.

Brush epoxy to wet out the plywood 2 inches around all the joints.

Mix epoxy with wood flour to a peanut butter consistency. Mix batches of 1-2 cups as needed. Bigger batches may cure before you finish especially in hot weather.

Spread the epoxy into the joints with your spreading tool to make a fillet. Remember to filet the bulkheads to the bottom and sides. Try to be neat making an even fillet with no lumps along the edges. Where two panels meet at a shallow angle you can use a plastic squeegee to create a smooth transition between the panels. The ends of the hull are a little tricky and require the most epoxy. Use fairly thick epoxy mixture there so that the fillet stays put.

Cut fiberglass tape (9oz fiberglass cloth 3"wide) the length of each joint and lay it onto its joint. Brush unthickened epoxy on to the tape. Use the plastic squeegee to help move the epoxy around. Try to get only enough epoxy on the tape to thoroughly wet it out, (so it is clear) not so much that it drips. Squeegee any excess onto the plywood to seal it.

First cut all the wires using flush cutting wirecutters. You will have to pull the wires up out of the epoxy in places before cutting.

Sand the surface to smooth the wires and drips. You can use a belt sander (80 grit belt) on slow speed or a sanding block. Do just a little now, get the worst of it. There is more epoxy work to do. Avoid sanding into the wood at all during this step.

Start by sanding the inside edges of the deck and hull with course sandpaper to give teeth to the epoxy joint. Also, sand the inside of the deck where the bulkheads will be.

Round the top corners of the bulkheads with a hand plane to fit the fillets on the deck.

Hook wire into the holes around the edge of the deck. Re-drill any holes that may have been filled with epoxy.

Lay the deck onto the hull and start loosely hooking the wires through the holes in the deck. When all the wires are hooked through the deck and hull, start tightening them to draw the seam closed. Press the wires into the joint with a screwdriver. (Reach through the cockpit and hatches.)

When you have the joint tightly closed, you can start the epoxy work. Lay the boat on its side. Brush epoxy into the inside of the lower joint.

Spread the thickened epoxy into the joint with your spreading tool to make a fillet. Remember to filet the bulkheads to the bottom and sides. Try to be neat making an even fillet with no lumps along the edges. Where two panels meet at a shallow angle you can use a plastic squeegee to create a smooth transition between the panels. The ends of the hull are a little tricky and require the most epoxy. Use fairly thick epoxy mixture there so that the fillet stays put.

Cut fiberglass tape (9oz fiberglass cloth 3"wide) the length of each joint and roll it up. Make the tapes that go into the bow and stern about 1 foot shorter than the joint ( you will have trouble laying anything much longer.) Soak each roll of tape in unthickened epoxy for a minute prior to applying it. Unroll the tape onto the joint and brush unthickened epoxy on it as needed. You will need to use a brush on a stick for the ends. Use the plastic squeegee to help move the epoxy around. Try to get only enough epoxy on the tape to thoroughly wet it out, (so it is clear) not so much that it drips.

Roll the boat onto the other side to work on the other seam. Work on the bulkhead to deck joints as you can reach them.

When the epoxy has cured, clip all the wires.

Use a belt sander or sanding block to remove drips and smooth the wire ends on the deck to hull joint then use fine (80 grit) sand paper on a palm or random orbital sander to smooth the entire boat. Sand carefully, do not over do it and sand through the first layer of the plywood. Try to get all the drips off. Put a small radius on all the joints; use a sanding block or your block plane for this.

If you want to decorate your boat with veneer inlays or sign it (assuming you are planning to varnish it) now is the time. I used birch edging (a product sold in woodworking stores to give a nice edge to plywood shelves) to make a stripe along the side of my boat. You can apply the veneer with epoxy, cyano-acrylate (super glue) or high quality contact cement. Be neat with the glue, drips and bubbles show. Sand the veneer to round any edges slightly, don't sand through the wood.

Turn the boat up side down. Lay 4oz fiberglass cloth over the entire bottom and trim it to fit. I 'glassed the entire outside of my boat with one layer. I, therefore, trimmed the fiberglass to where the deck and hull meet. I put an extra layer in small areas around the bow and stern where they are likely to get scratched in use.

Smooth the 'glass with a dry brush. If the cloth will not lay down on the bow or stern, you should make a cut in the cloth and fold it over the bow making two layers.

This next step should be done with care as it shows. Choose a warm, dry time to work. If you are working in cold or wet conditions, you may need to heat your work space. Do not use a space heater which exhausts into the room such as most kerosene heaters because they produce water vapor which can effect the epoxy. Read the epoxy manufacturer's recommendations.

Mix up about 3 cups of epoxy. Use a 2" bristle brush and a plastic squeegee to spread the epoxy into the 'glass. The 'glass should become clear as the epoxy soaks through it into the wood.. Spread the epoxy so that the 'glass is saturated but there are no drips. Brush or squeegee out any bubbles. Use the brush in a dabbing motion to fill bubbles in tough places such as the edges of veneer art. You will need to mix up more epoxy as you go...do not mix large batches because the epoxy can cure faster than you can use it especially in hot weather.

When the epoxy has cured, Cut the excess glass off with a sharp knife. Sand the surface lightly with 80 grit sandpaper to remove any sharp fuzz. Sand more along the edge where the deck layer of cloth will over lap the hull layer.

Turn the boat over and apply 'glass to the deck.

Also apply 'glass to the outside surface of the hatches.

Cheek-plates are pieces of plywood epoxied into the cockpit between the deck and bottom which help hold you in place in your seat. They also help to support the backrest.

Cut the cheek-plates according to the pattern and it them in place. They will require some adjustment to fit right as all boats vary a bit. Trim them with your block plane or a coping saw.

Cut the slots for the back strap as described on the pattern.

Fillet and glass them in.

Cut pieces of plywood to make a 3/4" lip around the inside of each hatch. Fit 6 separate pieces for each hatch. Make the pieces overlap the inside of the deck by 1" or so. The overlap will need to be cut to a bevel on the rear hatch sides.

Glue the plywood pieces in place using thickened epoxy.

When the epoxy has cured, sand every thing smooth.

Then seal the wood with unthickened epoxy.

I manufacture my flush eyes prior to this step (drawings are available).

Mark the locations of the deck eyes using a tape measure from the ends of the boat and the edge of the deck. Use the locations on the plans or plan your own. Remember that these eyes may interfere with your feet or knees so locate them accordingly.

Use a hole saw to drill holes for each deck eye.

Fittings in the ends of the boat may require some filing to make them fit well into the sharply "V"-ed deck.

Brush epoxy onto the inside of the hole and the mating surface of the fitting. Add some thickened epoxy to the mating surface of the fitting and push it into the hole. Fittings in the ends of the boat can be pulled into position using a piece of wire threaded through the hole and hooked into the fitting.

Turn the fittings so the cross bar is at a good angle. Most of mine are mounted crosswise with the end ones mounted lengthwise.

The "end-pour" provides strength to the boat and a place to mount lifting toggles.

Balance the boat on its end while leaning it against a tree or a corner of your house (somewhere it will stay put.)

Using a narrow, deep container such as a plastic cup, mix up a runny mixture of thickened epoxy. If you have access to micro-balloon filler you can make a lighter endpour.

Pour the mixture into the end of the boat letting it fill the end for 4-6".

After one end cures, do the other end. The large lump of epoxy cures pretty quickly.

Drill 1/2" holes 4" from the ends 1/2" below the deck, through the ends of the boat for lifting toggles.

Use 80 grit sandpaper to feather any edges of fiberglass cloth that still show and remove any sharp fuzz left over. Do the whole boat and don't forget the hatches.

Clean off the dust with a clean, dry cloth.

As before, work on a warm, dry day. Mix up about a cup of (unthickened) epoxy and squeegee it onto the boat to fill the weave of the fiberglass and wet out any exposed wood. Apply just enough epoxy, not so much that it drips. Try not to over work any of the epoxy to avoid getting dust and air bubbles mixed in.

Let the epoxy cure then sand the boat smooth. Use 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the entire boat, remove all the gloss but try not to sand into the fiberglass much.

Remove the sanding dust with a clean, dry cloth, wash the boat with warm water to remove any amine blush and then a tack-cloth or cloth dampened with brushing thinner.

Use a 2-3" foam brush to apply a thin uniform coat of varnish. Do not worry about perfection but avoid drips.

When varnish has dried, sand the boat enough to remove dust spots and (sssshhh!) drips.

Re-clean and re-varnish. Oh, by the way, you can try your boat after a coat or two of varnish.

Remember to varnish inside the cockpit, foot-braces and hatches.

If you paint, apply it the same general way. You can use thickened epoxy to better smooth the boat in the previous step. A high-build primer can help with that yacht-like finish.